The novelty of modern cosmetology — enzyme Facials. They are credited with truly magical properties. The compounds are able to deeply cleanse the skin to cause effects similar to the result of massage or gymnastics, moisturize and rejuvenate the skin. Is it really so? What features of the enzyme means? And whether to buy them for home use?
Enzyme cosmetics has developed in the last fifteen years. Until that time, the enzymes used exclusively in medicine, where they added in a treatment for burns, cuts and other skin injuries, partially used to improve the condition of the epidermis dermatitis.
What is the enzymes
Vocabulary of cosmetics and cosmetology defines enzymes as biological catalysts. These substances are not doing yourself any work. But communicating with other substances such as proteins, greatly increasing their effect.
An important advantage of substances in that the speed of biochemical reactions set enzymes can be controlled. Accordingly, the intensity of impact on the cells can be predicted initially, until the immediate use of the substance.
Theoretically, using such catalysts it is possible to solve many problems. For example, there are data on studies in which enzymes work at the level of nanoparticles and facilitates valuable to the dermis of substances through the epidermal barrier. Substances can improve the quality of cell regeneration, strengthen the composition of the lipid barrier to protect skin from dehydration.
But the theory is far from practice. The fact that such substance is extremely unstable. Upon contact with other substances they are rapidly destroyed. The lack of an environment completely inactivates the enzyme components for forty-sixty minutes.
“Ferments or enzymes are substances that are sure to attract the attention of the buyer, cosmetics, — says the candidate of biological Sciences Anna Margolin. — But not everyone understands these components. Enzymes are proteins, complex molecules whose structure determines their opportunities. If their structure is disrupted, a material completely loses its properties”.
Features enzyme cosmetics
Critical instability of enzymes has led to the development of two independent trends in cosmetology. One direction professional beauty, knowing the value of these compounds, making efforts to preserve them.
In each case require different approaches. For example, the enzyme bromelain, the enzyme used for exfoliation, the substance is stable. When using it in the recipe does not require drastic and costly solutions. But other enzymes, e.g., amylase, lysine do not have a high stability to the environment. In order to bring them to the client in an unchanged form, they need correctly to “preserve”. But such approaches usually require additional investment.
The last factor was the basis for the development of enzyme makeup the type of mass-market. “You will agree, from the manufacturer there is a huge temptation to enter into the composition of the enzyme, indicate in the advertisement and on the packaging, but do not be concerned, will this stuff to work” — commented on the problem of Anna Margolin.
Therefore, high-quality cosmetics with enzymes can not be cheap. It is always the result of the latest research, discoveries and new technologies, implementation of which major cosmetic companies spend huge amounts of money.
Commonly used substances
There is a list of active substances used in the enzyme makeup often enough.
- Bromelain and papain. This is a substance isolated from vegetable raw materials. They are used for superficial peeling of the skin. Papain, derived from papaya, breaks down hard keratin of dead cells and promotes their fast removal from the surface of the living epidermis. Soft and delicate procedure does not injure live skin cells, so this type of peel is recommended by beauticians for home use instead of a scrub.
- Coenzyme Q10. Fashion enzyme that can be found in expensive creams for skin care face. For a long time coenzyme Q10 was considered to be an effective component of anti-aging skin exposed to free radicals. So in the publication “Cosmetic and beauty” indicates that it activates a number of enzyme reactions in cell mitochondria, which leads to an increase of the potential of the cells. But in 2015, Professor of canadian universiteta Siegfried Hekimi questioned the common opinion. In tests on mice, he found that resistance of cells to free radicals when exposed to CoQ10, and without his participation remains unchanged.
And where are the other substances that you ask? What is used in the enzymatic masks for the face? The reviews about these beauty tools from industry professionals mixed.
Substances for exfoliation
“Enzymatic cleaning products is the only category of funds in which the presence of enzymes justified from the point of view of biology, says the author of the book “New cosmetology” Elena Hernandez. — These substances, working on the surface of the skin, weaken the adhesion of the stratum corneum, destroying their structural chemical bond. Initially, the enzyme formulation tools were created for surface use, not to “push” them into the skin”.
On the basis of these substances create a gommage, enzymatic exfoliants and peels. Their effectiveness varies.
- Gommage. Contain a minimum concentration of active enzymes bromelain or papain. They remove impurities from the surface of the skin. Can be used at home regularly. If skin is oily, twice a week, when dry — once.
- The exfoliants. Contain a higher concentration of active enzymes. Removes protein, lipid impurities from the skin. Suitable for home use but not recommended for dry epidermis.
- Enzymatic peels. Used in beauty salons as a means to prepare the skin for other procedures. Have high exfoliating activity, loosen the surface layer of keratocytes, therefore, applied for the preparation of chemical peeling, ultrasonic cleaning of the face.
Also in terms of the beauty parlor used Pancreatin, lipase, creatine, pepsin and other enzymes. “In a concentration of one percent, they have a cleansing effect, — said gun’ko V. G., National pharmaceutical Academy of Ukraine. They remove particles of epithelium and increase the skin’s ability to absorb cosmetic products”.
Features enzyme masks
But what is enzyme face mask if beauty assigns to them only the means to cleanse the skin? “Masks are needed to fully care for the superficial shell of the skin, says aesthetician Alexander Cherniavsky. — These compounds do not have an in-depth treatment, and therefore can not provide the effect similar, for example, with a massage.”
Thus, the specialist says enzyme masks are very active cosmetology means. “They are used to reduce age-related changes, — continues Alexander Cherniavsky. — Launch a number of enzymes, helping cells to share and update”.
Enzyme cosmetics presents a limited number of professional brands. Creator of one of them, a biochemist and pharmacologist Dann Montague-king says that the masks substances serve as catalysts for certain reactions that run not only in the epidermis but also deeper layers of the skin.
“There are enzymes that are applied to the skin surface is very helpful, says work squads Dann Montague-king. — Some help to remove the layers of dead cells. Other release gases and impurities from the skin. In the complex, it helps to even out its texture, tone and give a more youthful appearance. But these substances are not all that can be used by cosmetology”.
On approval of Dann Montague-king, in the course of the research his team enzymes have been divided into a number of groups. They ways to dissolve protein deposits, starch, and other destroy the fat tube in the pores. Identified substances that can cause a chain reaction through the cell walls. As a result of complex substances is achieved by several effects.
- The increased blood flow. Occurs due to capillary dilation. When properly done, balanced mask with enzymes face covered with a strong mesh vessels, which suggests that the treatment was successful. This grid is maintained for twenty minutes.
- Reverse osmosis. The qualitative composition causes an osmotic reaction, which resulted in the pollution and toxins leave cells. During the procedure it feels the ripple of tissues.
- Stimulation of muscle contraction. During the enzyme treatments the facial muscles contract in an arbitrary manner. This requires the right application of technique of banding. It involves “drawing” of the grid in the vertical and horizontal composition. In this way it is applied on face, neck and décolleté. On the muscles around the eyes and mouth remedy was not applied, so as to predict the direction of their reduction is impossible. Stimulation of muscle contractions leads to an improvement in their condition and reduce the severity of facial wrinkles.
“Creating formulas enzyme masks — technically complex process, continues Dann Montague-king. — It is expensive and lengthy. But for thirty-nine years of research, I came to the conclusion that this method can be used to treat almost all diseases of the skin and its age-related changes.”
Equipment home use
What you need to know using enzyme facial mask at home? First, that a number of their advertised effects are not supported by nothing except the claims made by the manufacturers. The funds sometimes used in cosmetic practice. They are used for correction of age changes of skin tone and elasticity, reduce wrinkles, reduce signs of ptosis of facial tissues.
Here are a few recommendations that will help you to determine whether to include such funds in your care.
- Try the salon. Proceed through enzyme masks in the cabin, which offers such a service. You can feel the effect of money and see how it acts on the skin.
- Evaluate the necessity of the house. Cosmetics with enzymes, like any other, is divided into professional and for home care. The level of active components in the latter is below. So after a salon effect at home may not seem so pronounced. But if you see a good result after the salon, at home you can use the tool to maintain it.
- Be prepared for a high price. Qualitative enzyme mask — the product is expensive. He can not be cheap, as on the creation of the composition, which could persist in the active form of proteins, worked for many years, biochemists, technicians, pharmacists. Such a composition is impossible to buy in the supermarket. Usually funds for home care can be enjoyed in the salon where they work with professional masks.
The tool you need to prepare and apply immediately. Distribute him in the face with a wide brush vertical and horizontal “strokes”. After applying you need to lie down and hold in this position for at least forty five minutes. In some cases, it is recommended apply on face towel soaked in hot water, as the enzymes are activated at a temperature of from thirty-five to forty degrees.
Activation of active substances takes place within twenty minutes. You may feel tingling, tingling, twitching or throbbing of the skin. Manufacturers allow such a reaction. For forty-five minutes, the mask hardens on the skin before removing, it is desirable to soak with water. To do this, again, put on a damp face cloth. Then rinse like a simple mask and perform the procedure of skin care.
After the drug on the face may be redness. The mask is worked in full, if you see a “road map” of distinct vessels. She’ll go in about twenty minutes. If the skin is red, hot to the touch, you will not achieve the effect means. Perhaps it was applied wrong or incorrectly prepared composition.
Enzyme facial mask — a controversial tool in modern cosmetology. Traditionally, enzymes are used for effective and gentle exfoliation, but in this context used to activate the reserves of the skin, its rejuvenation and improve skin tone. Drugs can not be cheap, so it makes sense to undergo a test procedure at the beauty salon, to see the effect and only then to buy them for home use.
Enzyme face mask: properties and applications