What means for skin rejuvenation offers modern cosmetology? Whether to turn to invasive techniques? Is there really an effective alternative to injections? Can the cream or serum to replace hyaluronic acid injections and Botox?
Skin aging is a natural process occurring on a background of General wear and tear of the body. Modern cosmetology has extended its age range in comparison with the concepts that existed even twenty years ago. Today’s recommendations deal with the prevention of aging of the skin let the girls at the age of twenty years. And often they are completely unfounded.
It is important to understand what aging really is and how it happens.
Why aging skin
Skin — not just the shell of our body. It is a vast living body, closely related to other body systems. The skin condition is influenced by multiple factors, such as the quality of the work of the digestive system, stability of the immune system, hormonal balance, even a single stress.
When the body starts the aging process, and it occurs after the age of thirty, the structure of skin changes. In fact, aging is a decrease in the effectiveness of tissue regeneration and the speed of reproduction of protein is the main building block of cells. The slower our body produces a protein, the slower updated cells. This happens in each “corner” of the human body, but the skin condition externally. Therefore, under the prevention of aging often understand the particular approach to care.
The possibility of external influence
Scientists have long understood that to maintain youthful skin it is important to give her the appropriate signals prohibiting “sleep”, increasing the speed of regeneration and the reproduction of its own protein. The main protein of the skin is collagen.
To maintain quality updates on a sufficient level, it is necessary to support healthy cells and fibroblasts. They are in the process of proliferation and stimulate the formation of new collagen fibers. But to control the behavior of these cells is necessary before they “reach out”. And it prevents epidermis — the outer barrier layer of the skin.
Despite minor exterior thickness, the epidermis is an extremely efficient protective system. It consists of five layers of different cells and covered by an external “shell” — layered, keratinized epithelium. The purpose of the epidermis is to eliminate the contact of the dermis and subcutaneous fat with the external factors. And my job this system works.
To penetrate the epidermis can only very small molecules. And ten years ago science did not know the substances, is capable of overcoming the protective shell of our body and delivery to the fibroblasts of the respective signals. The only guaranteed way to reach these cells were injection. Puncture the epidermis with a needle, the doctor injects a necessary substance into the inner structure of the skin to enhance its regenerative processes. So in cosmetology emerged towards injecting rejuvenation.
The reasons for the popularity of injection
Direction violently and rapidly developed. There are many variations, allowing it to enter into the structure of the skin different substances. For example, biorevitalization hyaluronic acid to replenish the skin. Promote the injection of hyaluronic acid was promoted by the fact that it is a signal substance for the activation of fibroblasts.
In addition to hyaluronic acid under the skin began to introduce various mixtures of substances. Was formed for the mesotherapy allows you to fill the tissue amino acids, vitamins. Appeared Botox and similar on the effects of drugs that cause paralysis of certain muscle groups, which leads to the elimination of their tone and the correction of facial wrinkles.
In the injection methods of rejuvenation of large corporations have invested huge amounts of money. Conducted a wide advertising campaign, spreading the idea of the return of youthful skin by beauty shots. An important factor in their wide distribution was the super-profitability of technology: confident in their effectiveness, people were willing to pay for guaranteed rejuvenation. But, unfortunately, the work of injecting methods not always.
The reason for reducing the production of hyaluronic acid can be diseases, autoimmune processes. But the vast majority of middle-aged women amount of the substance in the body similar to what was twenty years ago.
In cosmetics hyaluronic acid is used as the active moisturizing ingredient. But if the skin is dehydrated, which manifests its dryness, formation of wrinkles, you must first decide two questions.
- If you drink enough water? For normal tone of the skin needs every day to drink 1.5-2 liters of clean water.
- If there’s moisture loss due to impairment of barrier function of the skin? The reasons for reducing the effectiveness of the epidermis variety, but it can happen in sixteen and fifty years. To maintain the barrier function of the skin allows for proper, regular maintenance with the application of cosmetics.
Cosmeceuticals for prevention of aging
To consider injection the only means of preserving youthful skin is wrong. Today there are drugs that can overcome the epidermal barrier and deliver to the deeper layers of the skin the same substances or signals that deliver the compositions of the syringe.
Today, when cosmetics can work wonders, it’s hard to imagine that just 50-60 years ago, in the mid-20th century, rather limited assortment of these products existed mainly for medicine. And for the production used is almost the only method of producing cosmetics — cold method of creating creams and ointments. Then the producers of cosmetics even to imagine the future rapid growth and scale of development of the market of means on care of skin and hair.
But demand determines supply. Especially in the modern world, where the desire to preserve the health and beauty was not so much a whim, as the style of life and a special philosophy.
In addition, over half a century has changed globally and the base ingredient of cosmetic products with these changes since the mid 80-ies are pronounced and significant in nature. Now this may seem funny, but back in the mid-20th century top cosmetic thoughts were considered creams consisting of petrolatum, beeswax, castor oil, mink oil, qaszalataolo of spermaceti and lanolin. But the most exquisite was considered to be products containing a small amount of natural oils and extracts.
This trend (some would say “stagnation”) remained in the cosmetics industry long enough. The cosmetic preparations according to the law (until recently) was limited to the effects on the stratum corneum of the skin.
However, around the end of 70-ies of the most important discoveries in biology, chemistry and medicine, allowing to create new looks on the skin and the processes occurring in it, has led to a revolution in the cosmetic industry. Not the last role in this was played by the growing education of consumers which began to show the color more stringent requirements.
The changes that have occurred over the past few decades, the cosmetic industry created the preconditions for a completely different approach to the development and production of cosmetics as a beauty stood on a strong scientific Foundation. So, in addition to the normal cosmetics in the twenty-first century came cosmeceuticals. Now she took his rather large place in people’s daily life.
To cosmetic products has become increasingly efficient, modern biochemists and cosmetic chemists are working intensively in three important areas:
Thus, the answer to the question of what can replace the beauty shots, steel cosmeceuticals. Cosmeceuticals is cosmetics, at the junction of pharmacological and cosmetic preparations. The difference between cosmetics and cosmeceuticals in the amount of active substances in the composition. The past is full of active ingredients to the maximum limit allowed by the funds, not subject to pharmaceutical licensing.
For the first time on cosmeceutical means, said Russian scientists. One of the representatives available domestic cosmeceuticals is cosmetics “Mirra”. The scientific staff of the company for twenty years conducting research on the basis of the State scientific center of applied Microbiology, creates unique directional and implements them into production.
All of this requires serious research and investments, therefore, cosmeceuticals are generally more expensive conventional cosmetics. But work is a lot more effective it become a safe and painless alternative to injections of hyaluronic acid and Botox.
The active ingredients in cosmeceuticals
Thanks to the development of molecular technologies, Russian specialists managed to obtain low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, able to penetrate the epidermis and accumulate in the dermis. Along with her applied weight hyaluronic acid as a more secure and gentle option that provide good hydration without the risk of irritation.
But not only gialuronka included in cosmeceutical products. Will focus on the effects of their major components.
Vegetable oil is often included in organic cosmetics. In small concentrations they enhance the funds essential fatty acids, necessary for maintaining the lipid barrier of the skin and maintain moisture in its structure. But the volume is extremely small, since the increase in dosage of the product is too thick, sticky “film” on the surface of the skin. The presence of such a film is dangerous because it decreases the efficiency of metabolic processes and leads to the opposite reaction — dehydration and premature aging.
The composition of cosmeceutical products include not normal, and fermented oil. First of all, fermentation is the fermentation process of different types of microorganisms (yeast, lactic acid and other bacteria). In the process of fermentation the decomposition of organic substances, resulting in formation of substances with a different chemical composition and allocation of chemical energy. This process occurs under the action of enzymes — the enzymes contained in the cells of microorganisms. Obtained after fermentation substances rich in amino acids, vitamins and antioxidants. They contribute to the stimulation of metabolic processes in the skin, resulting in rejuvenated her. Cosmetics based on fermentation easily absorbed by the skin due to the breakdown of substances in the fermentation process and reduce the particle size for better penetration into the tissue, it does not lose its useful properties.
This components of the skin, which gradually declines with age. In his youth, the volume of ceramides maximum, but for thirty years it is natural production only covers about sixty-two percent of the body’s needs, and for forty years — no more than thirty seven percent.
But ceramides are extremely important for our skin. They represent lipid molecules, actively participating in the formation of the Horny barrier layer of the epidermis. The declining amount of ceramides appears unpleasant consequences.
- Excessive loss of moisture. Implies the emergence of dryness, irritation, the appearance of wrinkles.
- Violation of the cell cycle. Ceramides activate the cellular apoptosis — the natural process of cell death to the formation of persistent stratum corneum. This process is important for two reasons. First, the more cells die, the more the basal layer produces new skin, which provides a stable regeneration and renewal of tissues. Second, the failure of the stratum corneum causes excessive moisture loss and related problems.
In cosmeceutical tools used vegetable ceramides that are indistinguishable from the natural cells of the human body. When applied to the epidermis they dissolve in the lipids of the Horny layer and eliminates defects in its intercellular structure.
Ceramides stimulate skin regeneration, “forcing” her to work as productively as before the age of thirty. Stimulation of the updates restores the damaged epidermis, eliminates dryness, the effects of acne, fine wrinkles.
The most interesting and extensive group of substances, which revolutionized in the world of cosmetology. Peptides represent amino acids. In composition they are similar to proteins, which also consist of amino acids, with the only difference that the number of links in the “chain” in peptides is many times less than in the proteins ranges from two to three to several dozen.
Peptides — natural compounds for every living organism. The human body produces them to the regulation of physiological processes. The number of peptides is huge. Depending on their structure and sequence of amino acids, these chains give the appropriate commands to initiate certain processes in the body.
Modern medicine uses different types of peptides. Most popular in cosmetics chain amino acids signaling and regulatory actions. They consist of just two or three amino acids, which substances are called dipeptides and tripeptides.
The use of peptides based on scientific research conducted by Soviet scientists in the mid-seventies of the last century. A group of employees of the laboratory of Bioregulation Military medical Academy. Kirov suggested that the aging of the body, manifested in the reduction of the reproduction protein, can be stopped by application of peptide bioregulators. The proposed concept of peptide Bioregulation today received development in the scientific circles of the Russian aesthetic medicine.
In cosmetics peptides are used several types.
- Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5. Part of the funds for anti-aging care. Effectively penetrates the epidermis and stimulates the production of collagen fibers in the skin, improves its elasticity. Involved in the formation of connective tissue, increases the strength of the vascular wall. Strengthens skin, helps eliminate wrinkles medium and great depth.
- Argilerine. The action of this peptide compared with the effect of Botox, but its effect on the body is much more safe and gentle. As an alternative to Botox, it reduces the activity of catecholamine involved in the formation of nerve impulses. Due to the elimination of nervous tension the facial muscles come into a state of relaxation that smoothes wrinkles. But argilerine does not cause full paralysis, mask-effect, swelling and puffiness of the face without expressions, which is typical for injections of Botox and its analogs.
- Matrixyl TM. The regulatory peptide group, which awakens the activity of the regeneration of the skin. He gives a signal to the fibroblasts, which in turn cause tissue to produce collagen, fibronectin, elastin. In laboratory tests and cosmetic practice confirmed the high efficiency of products based on Matrixyl that restores the regenerative function of the skin. Within two months of treatment, a decrease in the severity of wrinkles by 30-40 percent, a significant improvement of the skin appearance.
- Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3. Complex with a pronounced protective anti-inflammatory properties. Improves skin tone, promotes its hydration, strengthens the capillaries, stimulates tissue regeneration, therefore it is included in the composition of the funds for sensitive skin prone to couperose.
- Rigin. Peptide with anti-inflammatory action. Part of the funds anti-aging care. Its necessity is caused by increased production by the body in adulthood cytokine — substances that stimulate inflammatory response. At the same time has a rejuvenating effect.
- Acetyl octapeptide-3. A chain of eight amino acids, by the action similar to argilerine. But the latter is superior in efficiency, ensuring a more pronounced relaxing effect.
Manufacturers offer tools with one or several active peptides, which can solve multiple skin problems. In particular, to contribute to its rejuvenation, to fight with rosacea, and lighten pigmentation spots.
Scientific achievements of Russian scientists confirm that the alternative to the injections exists. This medicines based on cellular technologies, who are reviving their own processes of tissue regeneration without the use of artificial substances. Cell cosmeceuticals with peptides, ceramides, fermented oils can be effectively applied in home care without the risk of side effects and pain of invasive techniques.
The alternative to injections — cosmeceuticals with peptides